Visar inlägg med etikett Kyoto. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett Kyoto. Visa alla inlägg

torsdag 24 juli 2014

The many arms of Kannon

The visually most interesting Buddha statue is, in my opinion, the Boddhisatva Kannon. Especially in her thousand-armed form (Senju Kannon).






Kannon is a popular deity in most East Asian countries, and Japan is no exception. According to the mythology, Kannon was originally a human princess. Her father wanted to marry her off to some rich/politically powerful man, but Kannon refused to marry anyone who didn't help easing the pain and affliction of humans. This so angered her father that he had her executed. However, the executioner could not fulfill the deed, since all of reality loved Kannon for her great compassion: thus the axe would not bite her. Kannon realized that the executioner would be punished no matter what he did: if he failed to execute Kannon, her father would punsih him, and if he did succeed, he would go to Hell for this sin. Thus she asked the blade to bite her, and accepted the executioner's bad karma as her own: she thus was killed, and went to Hell for taking responsibility for her own death.

However, Kannon would not stay dead: her mercy and compassion was so strong that the part of Hell she ended up in was transformed into a paradise, and she was sent out of Hell and returned to Earth, where she lived quietly in a temple.

A little while later, her father the king became very ill. The physicians found no cure for his ailment, but an oracle then said that the king could be saved by a medicine made out of an arm and an eye of a person without anger, and that such a person lived in a certain temple. When the king's men arrived at the temple, Kannon willingly sacrificed and arm and an eye to cure her father. The king was cured, and when he learned who she was he repented and bade for forgiveness.


The legend ends with Kannon about to ascend into nirvana. However, on her way, she heard crying and stopped and turned about. It was all the people suffering on Earth she heard. Then she decided to stay on the Earth and try to ease the suffering of all. However, she was very worried that she couldn't help everyone, since she had only one arm. But then from her, a multitude of arms burst forth, and since then she had as many arms as she needed to help all people.

Kannon is the goddess of Mercy, and is said to feel compassion with everyone, as the story above shows. In that way, I find her a little similar to the Satan of Christianity, who also accepts all humans without demanding that they adhere to certain rules.



So me of the pictures above are from the Sanjusangendo temple in Kyoto, with 1001 Kannon statues. I visited it, but photographing was not allowed, so I found these pics on the net.

måndag 7 juli 2014

A day trip to Nara

Yesterday, I went to Nara, the first capital of Japan. It takes about 1 hour to get to Nara from Kyoto.

Once there, I almost immediately ran into Tetsuo-san, an older man who worked as a volunteer guide. He offered to guide me through Nara.


First view of Nara

Our first stop was the old temple Tofuku-ji. Nara was capital of Japan in 710-94, and most sites are originally from that time span, though the individual buildings are younger. Tofuku-ji had, among other things, two pagodas, one considered "feminine" and "graceful", the other "masculine" and "powerful".


 Of course, the differences are obvious. Right? Right?

Later on, we visited the Todai-ji, home of Japan's greatest Buddha statue:


The temples both sported a few interesting features. One was symbols of Chinese lions, thought to be imports from Persian culture:


These symbols signify the extensive trade networks that existed during the 8th century. Tetsuo-san explained that Nara culture is very obviously influenced by Tang dynasty China and countries beyond: once the capital was moved to Kyoto, the Japanese of the Heian era forged their own versions of Buddhism.

The other feature were the sacred deer of Nara. I let the pictures speak for themselves:


We finished the day by some sake-testing.



söndag 6 juli 2014

Another beautiful thing: the Silver Temple

So, I had this long discussion of beauty as it pertains to the Golden Temple, as inspired by Mishima's great novel. Then I visited the lesser known Ginkaku-ji, or Silver Temple.


At first glance, the Ginkaku-ji seems much less impressive than the golden temple. And that, of course, is precisely why I like this better. The Golden Temple is so blatantly obvious.



The Ginkaku-ji on the other hand is more subtle, not hitting you over the head with its power. It also blends in better with the surrounding nature, which I understand is an integral idea of Japanese gardens (the Golden temple on the other hands stands out). The Golden temple is a brightly shining sun, dominating its surroundings; the Silver Temple is a moon, bleaker, but also softer, and allowing other sources of light to shine as well.




Even the names of the two temples showcase these differences. While the Golden Temple was created in a period of great wealth, and its name comes from the gilded plating on its wall, the Silver Temple was created roughly 100 years later. By then, times were hard, and no-one could spend money on gilded houses. Thus the "Silver" in the name is derived from the silver sand that exists at the site.

To me, then, the Ginkaku-ji is a much better example of beauty than the Golden Temple.

lördag 5 juli 2014

Nijo Castle

The Nijo Castle was the residence of the Tokugawa shoguns, who ruled Japan 1600-1868.

The outer moat 

 The main entrance to the inner courtyard


Not only these decorations...

 ... but this garden too!
 Overview of the castle buildings from the battlement

 One of the entrances as seen from the battlement

And a look up at the battlement. The walls are slanted, but there is no sign of any trace italienne here.

fredag 4 juli 2014

The Golden Temple: thoughts about beauty

Today I visited Kinkaku-ji, one of Kyoto’s most famous temples and one of the sights I was the most interested in, since I’ve read about it in Mishima Yukio’s novel, The Temple of the Golden Pavilion.

Everything is set up for high expectations. Mishima, probably the formost aestethician I know of, has written a book about the perceived beauty of the Golden temple. The guidebook warns that the Kinkaku-ji is almost always crowded, so better go either early or late; and when I arrive there is already quite a crowd, that only grows during the time I spend there.

The beauty of the Kinkaku-ji was already fabled when it accrued a tragic air in 1950, when the centerpice of the temple, the golden pavilion, was burned to the ground by a young monk.

The temple was rebuilt into an (almost) exact replica of itself, while the story of the obsessed monk was turned into the novel by Mishima, who uses the story to discuss the impression of beauty on a human mind.



Beauty. I’ll need a defintion. How about this: that which pleases me aesthetically is considered beautiful by me. It will have to do.

I look at the temple. Is it beautiful? As usual, instead of a straight answer, ramblings of what long-dead philosophers might have said flicker through my brain.

Plato: It is beautiful if it has any part of the idea of beauty in it (I don’t know how this is supposed to help).

Aristotle: Beauty is a result of function. If the temple serves its purpose well, whatever that purpose may be, then it is correct to call it beautiful, at least in relation to that purpose.

Well, you see how it is. Luckily, more gifted people than myself have handled this issue. In Mishima’s novel, the role of the temple in the mind of the protagonist Mizoguchi, is formed by his father, who tells him storeis about the temple’s fabled beauty. Mizoguchi imagines this beautiful temple. Then, after a while, he gets to actually see the temple for real:

”The Golden Temple cast a perfect shadow on the surface of the pond, where the duckweed and the leaves from water plants were floating. The shadow was more beautiful than the building itself /.../
Well, what do you think? said Father. It’s beautiful, isn’t it? /.../
I Changed my angle of vision a few times and bent my head in various directions. But the temple aroused no emotion within me. It was merely a small, dark, old, three-storied building. The phoenix on top of the roof looked like a crow that had alighted there for a rest. Not only did the building fail to strike me as beautiful, but I even had a sense of disharmony and restlessness. Could beauty, I wondered, be as unbeautiful a thing as this.” (Chapter 1)

Mizoguchi had already formed an idealized notion of the temple, one which the real temple could not possibly compete with. This, his subjective idea of the temple, comes to interpose itself between Mizoguchi and the temple. After that first view, he seems to deny that mundane reality, to shrink back from it, and hides in the idealized beauty of the temple in his mind.

This pattern of thinking has a terrible cost though, for the temple interposes itself between Mizoguchi and all possible expressions of beauty:

”Finally, I slipped my hand up the girl’s skirt. Then the Golden Temple appeared before me. /.../ Inasmuch as the girl had been rejected by the Golden Temple, my efforts at finding life, too, were rejected. How could I possibly stretch out my hands towards life when I was so enwrapped in beauty?” (Chapter 5)

Thus his final act of burning the temple down is an attempt to regain control of his life, an attempt to connect to the world around him. For that to have any chance of success, the temple must be destroyed.

As for my stance, I do not believe in ”pure” beauty. The temple in itself, referring to the building that was burned down, is not in itself beautiful. I agree that it is well-crafted, just as a person may be good-looking, but that is not in itself beauty. For anything to transcend to beauty,  context is needed.

For a person to be beautiful, the necessary context would be his/her thoughts, acts and personal traits. For a building such as the golden temple, the most immediate context is its surroundings, the features of the site: the pond, the islands, the trees.  In my view, this means that the temple building cannot be beautiful on its own: its beauty is not inherent, it’s contextual. This view seems to be at least discreetly acknowledged by Mishima in the chapter 1 quote above, where Mizoguchi notices that ”the shadow was more beautiful than the building itself”.



Since beauty is contextual, Mizoguchi’s efforts to destroy the beauty of the golden temple seem futile: he cannot destroy the beauty by just burning down the temple. In the end, he seems to realize this, but he is driven on by his own existential fatalism:

”One part of my mind kept telling me that it was now futile to perform this deed, but my new-found strength had no fear of futility. I must do the deed precisely because it was so futile.” (chapter 10)

One might add that once Mizoguchi decides on his course of action, he is in a way free: the temple no longer oppresses him, and he can function sexually. Thus his personal, psychological reasons for destroying the temple have also been removed at this point.

Of course, Mizoguchi could not have destroyed the beauty of the temple even if he had also managed to destroy the surroundings: the history and mythology of the temple is also part of the context that gives the temple its beauty. Ironically then, by burning down the golden pavillion, Mizoguchi actually enhanced its beauty. The modern visitors may marvel at the reconstructed building, while also reflecting upon the loss of the original. This poignancy adds to the beauty of the site.  






 (Could this be the face of the next crazy person to try to burn the temple? Only time will tell.)

Some random thoughts about Kyoto

Third day here, but only the second with real sightseeing - yesterday I still experienced some jetlag, but at least got to see the Daigo-ji.

I live in the part of the city called Higashiyama (i.e. East Mountain) where there's a lot of low houses and souvenir shops. My base of operations is a ryokan hostel, Hanakiya, letting me sleep on the floor among other things - which is great by the way. I will have to find one of those pillows, they're perfect for me.  The hostel is run by a friendly middle-aged woman, Eimi-san, and provides free tea and internet, so I'm obviously happy. And the rooms, though traditional, have AC, thus making it possible for me to sleep.

The weather so far has been rather overcast, and I'm glad for it - the heat is strong, even with the sun clouded. Yesterday there were torrential rains, which in some ways are worse: being all drenched is not that great when walking around in temples. My umbrella saved me, but by the end of the day even it could not stop me from getting wet.

There certainly are some great sights in Kyoto - the Golden Temple and the Nijo castle for example - but the city is clearly not as planned as Tokyo. Kyoto is rather sprawling, with the historic sights spread out into smaller clusters here and there. Logistically, Tokyo has the upper hand so far, since it has Kamakura as a suburb - that's like Kyoto concentrated into a much smaller area much more efficient imo). But of course, Kamakura does not have the same temples and shrines.

My itinerary of sorts for Kyoto looks something like this:

- yesterday (3/7): visit Daigo-ji and whatever else I find time for.

- today (4/7): visit the golden temple (kinkaku-ji) as well as the neighbouring templesRyoan-ji and Ninna-ji, and then visit Nijo Castle.

- tomorrow (5/7): visit the main temples in Higashiyama.

- 6/7: visit Nara (day trip)

- 7/7: either visit some more places in Kyoto or take a day trip to Ise.

The street where I'm staying

 The living room

 The stairs up to the attic, where I reside.

A view of Kyoto

torsdag 3 juli 2014

Daigo-ji pictures


Pictures from Daigo-ji, the temple compounding housing Kyoto's oldest building.

 Entrance to the compound

 What temple worth its name does not have temple guardians?


 directly inside

 the ancient pagoda, dated to 925 CE.